Monday, February 6, 2012

Absolutely amazing Somalian clinic

The warthog proudly curls his ugly tail over its nearly hairless back. He holds his head high and trots across the deep orange sand. He disappears into the brush and is followed by another, equally as jaunty in spite of his complete absence of any cuteness. Warthogs make me laugh because the are just so proud and just so ugly.

I look around for other animals and see a little black and red bird picking at the drying red blossoms on a dense brown thorny tree. The Kenyan army security lean on their truck and talk. Our driver's legs stick out from under the rear of the Landcruiser while he struggles to attach the rear drive shaft with the two remaining bolts. We had noticed increasing vibration about 30 minutes from Daadab heading for Dhobley and the problem was quickly identified. Our replacement vehicle would arrive soon; in the meantime I squat on my heels in the shade under the thorny tree with the red flowers. I stand up embarrassed after the hygiene coordinator announces that I look like her educational poster demonstrating how to bury stool.

We get to Dhobley (Somalia) eventually with several small delays along the way. The border is closed both ways so we have to convene with the Kenyan army on the border. There are no specific border formalities such as immigrations or customs. Our Kenyan transport and security remain on the Kenyan side. We transfer our meds and selves to some beat up station wagons and a pick up under the protection of the TFG. The transitional federal government forces are essentially local militia. While their Kalashnikov rifles were clearly worn and used and their uniforms generally oversized and mismatched, their alert eyes, active postures and unspoken attention to position and duty told me these were more than soldiers, they were experienced fighters. Al Shabaab had been cleared from town recently and a Kenyan air strike had killed, by report, around a hundred Al Shabaab attending a meeting a few days ago. Speaking to people in Dhobley, they were very hopeful for increased peace and stability with a decreased presence of the Al Shabaab. We visited the AFREC clinic and all I can say is I have an incredible admiration for these healthcare workers. They have accomplished building a women and children's center and staffing it. The hospital was being repaired after being used as a base for Al Shabaab when they held the town. It was shelled heavily when they were ousted several weeks ago. At the clinic,  dozens of women and children were there for care. The clinic building was clean, well cared for and the staff very professional. Four days ago these staff were in hiding in as the police station next door was under attack by RPGs; today they were back caring for their patients. Absolutely amazing dedication. I felt honored to meet them. Such unspeakable dedication to their patients and community. On the way out, one stuck his head in the window and asked "Pray for us." Please do.

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